Driving From California to Puerto Vallarta
Ready for the Drive!
When I decided to retire in Puerto Vallarta, I drove because I have pets and I don’t trust them in a plane. I had lived in the Bay Area so I crossed the border at Nogales, AZ and took the cuota toll roads to Vallarta. Don’t forget to buy your Mexican auto insurance before crossing the border. I crossed early in the morning to do all the paperwork and still get a long ways down the road the first day. The stops are about 20 miles inside the border at the edge of the Frontier sort of free-trade zone and include stops for immigration, customs and to get the import permit for the car and it all can take 2 hours or so.
I tried to break the drive into three days. First from the border crossing to Guaymas, Cuidad Obregon or even further to Navajoa depending on the time going through the border. The next day to Mazatlan and the third day to Vallarta. Travel on the cuota toll roads is wonderful; nice divided highways, not too much traffic. I only drove during the days. Towards sunset there would be bicycle riders along either or both sides of the highway going home after work or there would be someone tending cows or horses grazing in the shoulder along the highway.
I stayed at the nicer-looking motels on the outskirts of the larger cities. Motels were all the adult type and the security there was wonderful: high walls, a security gate, and enclosed garages. My car was packed full of items I was bringing down. Many motels will accepts pets and most have a lazy susan-type window where you can order food like hamburgers, club sandwiches, quesadillas, fries, chips, desserts and cold sodas, beer and mixed drinks delivered right to your room. It’s so nice after a long day of driving to be able to get something to eat and have a nice cold drink and not have to leave your room. The motels are very clean and secure but have no internet connection. There are plenty of regular hotels all along the way also like Best Western, Comfort Inn, etc but they’re hit and miss with pets, more expensive, and I wasn’t sure of the safety of the stuff in my car in just a regular parking lot.
The Dog loves the Jazuzzi
I have never had any troubles taking the cuota toll roads and I’ve made the trip back and forth probably eight times. Always fill up your tank, as there are some long stretches between gas stations. But on some trips I have run into trouble in some of the small towns along the way with the local police stopping me for bogus “infractions” and really wanting mordida (bribes). So, like many others, I never have more than 200 pesos visible in my wallet. All the rest of my cash is hidden somewhere else in the car. Once, in one of the towns between Guaymas and Mazatlan, I got off the freeway to go to a Burger King. Before getting out of the parking lot, a policeman stopped me for no seat belt. That was the 200 pesos. Turning around the corner to go back on the freeway, there was another cop who pulled me over after I drove through a 4-way stop pulling a loaded utility trailer. He claimed I “sped” through the stop. Ridiculous. I became angry for being tag-teamed and told him I gave all my pesos to the other cop. I had to show him my empty wallet, open the glove box and ashtray to prove there wasn’t any more money.
Aside from the inconvenience of a few cop hassles, I love driving in Mexico. It’s a beautiful country, good highways and the people are friendly. I’ve done it a lot.
Hi Sara,
I never thought of loading up my dogs and making the drive to PV myself until I saw your article. Now I am feeling like it’s the best option with my dogs. I am blonde and fair so I was a little concerned about constantly being pulled over. 🙂 Did you have any real problems? Any advise you can provide on things like particular locations to stay along the way?
I love your adventurous spirit. I hope to get the opportunity to meet you after I get there the June!
Terri
I am silver haired and fair and I have never been pulled over on the autopista. Now, in town it’s another matter. Don’t carry an more than 200 pesos in your wallet and anything else is hidden somewhere else. If you are stopped, never offer to pay the bribe. Always say, “Write me the ticket.” Most of the time, they will let you off with a warning.
Hi Sara,
Thanks for the information. My husband, and adult I are planning to move next year 2014s. We have heard so much about cartels there, be careful, know what you’re getting into etc…, I was hoping you could e-mail me and give us the reality of the safety factor of living in PV. He is leaning toward moving to Ecuador, I am leaning toward Puerto Vallarta and we are trying to consider all of our options. We have 3 small dogs as well and he likes the idea of being able to purchase a trailer and drive to our retirement destination. any information you could give us would be appreciated.
thank you in advance for your time.
Lynette
I, personally have never felt threatened in any way during all my years of living in Vallarta. I have walked around town, on the beach, and in my neighborhood at night with no problems. I have owned a home in colonia Buenos Aires for 4 yrs. and the worse thing that happened to me was graffiti….some initials in front of my place. It was never redone after it was painted over.
Now a trailer, fine if you’re pulling stuff, but if you’re talking about a motorhome, I think the Vallarta summers would be way too humid to be living in a small metal box. When I used a utility trailer to bring my stuff down, I had to take it out of the country after 6 months.
Where ever you end up, try it for a year first. Rent. Make no big commitments. See how you like it.
I have traveled to Puerto Vallarta via airplane some 38 times by airplane over 36 years. We have talked about driving, but my neighbor who has driven there from San Francisco for a long as I have been going, said that he would not drive again; But by airplane or one of the cruse ships.
Although I leave my heart in Puerto Vallarta each time I return my body to my home in San Francisco, at some point I will return my heart also to San Francisco.
I will tell you why. The world is getting more dangerous each year. The U.S. has a military budget larger than the rest of the world combined, because it is the world’s superpower. A legal superpower because of its Constitution and Bill of Rights, plus all states are Constitutional Republics. What makes it not a Democracy, is its legal system of Jury Nullification, that is more powerful that either the Supreme Court Justices, the President of the U.S., or the Attorney General.
In a court of law in America, the jury is charged with determining the facts, and the law. In a criminal court jury of 12 jurists, it takes only one to nullify the applicable laws and facts, and make a hung jury. It is final, and nobody can change their nullification. This permits the citizen to prevent a tyrannical government and system of laws from harming an accused citizen. It is the one thing that separates a Democracy from a Constitutional Republic.
What other country offers this protection to the individual citizen. It is the strength of the American Common Law.
Great article Sara. Thanks. I’ll be making the drive from California to PV in 39 days with my 170 pound Malamute. Really looking forward to getting there, and articles like yours have strengthened my resolve.
It’s been a couple of years since I drove. When I was in the States I stayed at Motel 6…..not the greatest rooms but they do take pets. Once I got over the border I always stayed at the no-tell motel. They were more receptive to pets, plus there is room service. You can order a burger or sandwich and a drink. Bring a bunch of DVDs. usually the motels have a player to watch on. You’re lucky to get one English channel on most motel systems.
Thank you for the reply Sara. I will bring a lot of frontline with me. I don’t currently use anything, because there are no fleas or ticks in the high desert, but I do know that I am trading cactus for fleas, and ticks. I’ll bring plenty bug spray for myself too. I’ll check out dvd players as well, the one I currently use has Netflix, Pandora, Youtube access. Again thanks for your reply. Jeff
Bring a big supply (enough to last until your next trip to the States) of Advantage. I’ve found it works better than Frontline for fleas and tics. Unfortunately you can’t get it here. Also a region 1 DVD player or better yet if you can find one that plays all regions. I haven’t been able to find an all region player here so I have 2- one for region 1 and another for region 4.
Thank you for the reply Sara. I will bring a lot of frontline with me. I don’t currently use anything, because there are no fleas or ticks in the high desert, but I do know that I am trading cactus for fleas, and ticks. I’ll bring plenty bug spray for myself too. I’ll check out dvd players as well, the one I currently use has Netflix, Pandora, Youtube access. Again thanks for your reply. Jeff
Hi Sara,
I’m 67. I flew down to Puerto Vallarta for the first time in July 2015. My niece had rented a condo at Loma Del Mar. Yes, it was hot but according to one of the long-time residents in the complex, not as hot as it generally get. I fell in love with PV during my short visit. I will be retired at the end of 2015 and have been considering driving from Sacramento, California down to Puerto Vallarta. My biggest concern is that I don’t speak Spanish. I have a 2014 Volkswagen Jetta (I believe this model VW was built in Mexico), and would like to drive it into Mexico. However, I’m looking at two surgeries before I can make the trip: Back surgery and hip replacement surgery, so a long drive such as this will probably have to wait until 2017.
Considering the language barrier, the idea of driving into Mexico is a bit intimidating. I had to have my 16 y/o cat euthanized the week before Thanksgiving, so it will be just me and however much stuff I can get into the Jetta.
My niece has since acquired another apartment in the area called Cinco de Decembre.
Any recommendations and/or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Dwain Barefield
Elk Grove, CA
I would recommend coming here for the first time to live, to do it on a 6 month tourist visa to see if you like living here full time. Your car would also have to leave when your 6 month visa was up. I have been told that you can have a car shipped from Calif. for around $500. I can get more details on that if you want. It seems like it’s way cheaper and much easier than the butt-busting drive to get here. I only did it because I had more pets than the airlines would allow and then later after I bought a house, to bring inherited family items that I did not want to trust to shippers. I currently fly back to the Bay Area to visit and I use Virgin America where you can check up to 10 pieces of luggage (or cardboard boxes) for $20-25 each. Much cheaper the driving your stuff here. The furnished rentals will have dishes, pots & pans, linens. I would recommend bring your clothing, a set of high thread count sheets and buying a small set of non-stick cookware. Just leave it packed in the box an save the receipt to show customs. You can bring in household goods worth $500 duty free. If you have a favorite brand of coffee, you might want to bring some of that too. Anything else can be gotten here.
Not knowing Spanish should not be that large a problem. Most of the folks who work within a few blocks of the beach speak at least some English. A small pocket dictionary was a big help for the me first year or so. While you’re still in CA, if you can put your TV on close captioning in Spanish. It’s an easy way to read in Spanish what has just been said in English.
5 de deciembre is right in the heart of Centro. I’ve rented 2 apartments there. Easy walking distance of lots of attractions, shopping and Ley’s supermarket. Lots of it is flat for walking and parts of it gets really steep. Near the major bus routes. Safe neighborhood and not too much noise at night.
You might want to consider price shopping the hospitals here. You might be able to have those surgeries for less than the price of your deductible up there. I did an article on my gall bladder surgery for the Expats in Vallarta group and was very happy and satisfied with my surgery here.
A personal question on your name. My father was also named Dwain and I’ve never seen that spelling anywhere else. Do you know anything about that spelling of the name? Sara
Hi Sara and a belated Merry Christmas to you.
Having my car shipped would be a good idea; however, after remembering what traffic was like during my visit, I should probably think about driving a car in PV. During my July 2015 visit, my niece and I took local buses and taxis when necessary. One of her friends lives on the Malecón a couple of doors down from La Bodeguita del Medio. I recall one trip to Ley’s mercado on the bus from the Romantic Zone one day. A driver of a vehicle in front of the bus just stopped. Poor bus driver was stuck behind him with no out for what seemed like forever. The driver in from of us didn’t seem to care that traffic was backing-up. Maybe using local transportation may be the order of the day but do get more details on shipping a vehicle for me if you can. The more information I have available the better decision making becomes.
As far as knowing whether I could live in Puerto Vallarta full-time is concerned, the only thing off the top of my head that could be a show-stopper is the humidity. Although I’m originally from Chicago, I’ve lived in California since 1968 and I’m not used to high humidity. Other than that, I love the people and the culture — not exactly crazy about Mexican music though. More of a fan of Afro-Cuban Jazz and Brazilian Bossa Nova, Samba genres.
Sacramento International (said with tongue in cheek) is limited to American, Delta, JetBlue, United, Aeromexico, Hawaiian, Horizon, Seaport, Southwest and Volaris. I’d have to drive into SFO if I wanted to fly Virgin. But it’s cheaper to fly out of SFO and Oakland than Sacramento thanks in due part to the legislators.
The apartment my niece has now is furnished. I’d be sharing the rental expenses but yes, at some point I’d probably want my own place.
I’m in the process of selling my house. I have to be out by Jan. 22 and I’ve found an apartment about 3 miles away from where I currently live. I know enough Spanish to be dangerous. Once I get settled in my apartment, I’ll probably take some classes. There is a school here: http://casadeespanol.org I know the owner and her husband.
I have medical coverage through CalPERS and U.C. Davis Medical Center. Not sure what the deductibles will be for the surgeries but I’d like to explore this route first. I’m also a disabled Vietnam-era vet and have access to the VA. I’d like to take advantage of these services as much as possible; although, I generally shy away from the VA. I’ve had a couple of bad experiences with the VA.
I’m the youngest of nine. All boys except for 2 girls. My sisters hoping for another sister named me. Not sure where they found the spelling.
I just drove from Mazatlan to Mexicali 2 days ago, via 15N and carretera 2 from Hermosillo to Mexicali. 2 was absolutely one of the best drives I’ve ever been on. 15 N was pretty bumpy and a lot of construction. I had many of the same concerns as others asking questions on this blog. I never once felt in danger. In fact, I did notice that other drivers to include the big rigs, would yield to faster traffic, and pull off to the shoulder so you can pass safely.
Make sure you have at least 500 pesos, about $32 USD for quota (toll roads) roads. You could go on gratis (non toll roads) but I wouldn’t.
Actually, the route into Mexico I’ve been researching is all cuota roads from Nogales, Az. down to PV:
15 to 15D; 15D to 74: 74 to 16: and 16 to 200 which should take me into Puerto. When I drive long distance trips, I like to get on the road around 5 or 6 am. Thing is once in Mexico, it becomes a question of where do I stay for the night? The route I’ve chosen takes me from Nogales to Hermosillo; Hermosillo to Mazatlan; and Mazatlan to PV. I guesstimate 3-4 days of driving. Just depends on driving conditions and unforeseen events. Driving from Sacramento to Arizona should be uneventful for the most part.
In Hermosillo I stayed at the San Sebastion hotel, and it was really nice, secure, very quiet, and right off hwy 15.
Hi Jeff, Thanks for the lodging tip.
Dwain
Hey Dwain, Here is a POC in Nogales that is a border agent, and arranges to have cars legalized to cross border. I used him to cross my 170 pound dog across the border, and he also arranged transport for us to Mazatlan. Very professional. Oscar Angulo ancomercial@hotmail.com.
Gracias! – Jeff
Much obliged.
Dwain
HI my name is Noah and i am 64 year old, you guys have health insurance for mexico , is it good ? and and how expensive leaving PV , what is good area to live over in PV, what is the first step i need to do coming there? i appreciate noah
Hi,
No I haven’t bought health insurance. I pay out of pocket. When I checked several yrs. ago I was quoted $300-500/ month. Quality medical care here is very affordable. Seeing an English speaking Dr. at one of the many local hospitals costs around 500 MXN, about $28. When I had to have my gall bladder removed (another articles on the Expats site) the total cost was $5000- that was the surgeons fee, operating room fees, anesthesiologist, private room.
If you’ve never been here before, come for a vacation and stay for a week or two. You might even want to check out the towns north of Vallarta. Check out the grocery stores, the shopping (everyday stuff- Costco, Wal-Mart, Sam’s Club, Auto Zone, Office Depot), the local shops (produce markets, seafood, bakeries, sweets, ice creams). Walk around and get to know the local neighborhoods (called colonias) Old Town has many condos alongside the beach with a lot of snowbirds just staying for the high season. Centro has more apartments/ homes and the population is pretty mixed. It’s all condos in the marina with a high population of retirees. I would say the main gringo areas are within 5 blocks of the beach…further inland will be less touristy and less pricey. Check out how you’d like to spend your retirement time- fishing, hanging out on the beach, nightlife. About 30 minutes north of Vallarta, I think it’s in the town of Bucerias, there is a large temple visible from the road, so there is probably some type of kosher food store there. Go online and check out the local real estate agencies and Craig’s List for rentals. You can get a good idea of prices and amenities. Sara
thanks so much it was very helpful,Noah
Great info. We will be driving down with our 2 dogs and cat in Oct. Just bought a condo in Emiliano Zapata.
It’s been several years since I wrote that article and I would now like to add that while driving my Calif. plated car I would regularly get pulled over…several times a year. Since purchasing a Jalisco plated car I’ve never been stopped. When I used to get pulled over, I learned to say “Write me the ticket. I will contest it tomorrow.” If they do actually write you up, they will take your driver’s license. If you get stopped again before paying the fine, just show them the ticket. But they don’t want to be stuck in court, so whenever I’ve said that, they have always let me go with a warning.
This is great info and I really appreciate it! I’m looking at a possible move to MX in the next several months and, like many here, have a dog (and a cat) that I’d need to move with me. I was thinking about driving, but as a single woman I’m not sure I’d feel too safe doing so (don’t feel very safe driving in rural areas of the U.S.!). Your last comment regarding a CA plate makes me even less inclined to try it (got my CA plate!),
I have been looking at rentals in PC via website, and would like to know the safest/quietest areas that are walkable to amenities, i.e. groceries/markets, restaurants, retail, etc.
It seems like much of the online rentals are geared specifically to U.S. tourists and priced accordingly. I can read Spanish but not sure what sites are legit and reliable and would prefer something NOT geared towards wealthy tourists but does state whether pets are permitted (most of the sites I’ve seen don’t say).
Thanks again for this site and your info!
Lisa
I just did some quick online research. The long distance bus lines do not accept pets at all. Cruise lines do not allow pets. So one option would be to be fly them down. Virgin America accepts multiple pets but only in the cabin in carriers that will fit under the seat. Aero México will accept 1 in cabin and others in cargo. Or maybe you could find someone else who would be interested in caravanning down with you?
The different areas..
Old Town- the highest concentration of English speakers both locals and expats, no grocery stores, but great bakeries, fresh produce markets, American style deli, but there is nowhere there that I buy meat other than Mikey’s Deli. Lots of restaurants from inexpensive to very pricy, art galleries, boutiques, nightlife.
Centro – Ley’s supermarket (the smallest of the area supermarkets and this is the one I use the least), the first 2 or 3 blocks from the beach have all the tourist stuff-restaurants, art galleries, night life, after that are some reasonably priced rentals, lots of shops the locals use.
Hotel Zone – higher end restaurants and night life close to the hotels, across the street begins less expensive rentals with small restaurants and local shops. Mega supermarket. At Plaza Caracol (a mall) is a Soriana supermarket, a movie theater, a casino and lots of local shops.
Across from the cruise ship terminal are a Walmart and the Galerias shopping center (a higher end American style mall with a Liverpool (Macy’s equivalent), a movie theater and casino, but not an area that you would be wanting to rent in.
I personally shop at lots of different places. I prefer Walmart and Soriana for the larger trips. I really like the specialty food shops in Old town – produce at the Emeliano Zapata produce market, pastries from both K’Rico and the Paris Café, bread from the farmer’s market on Sat., Mikey’s deli and the Casa Gourmet (for imported American food). My veterinarian, Dr. Julian Gomez Gutierrez, speaks excellent English.
The local classified is at http://www.manoamano.com. Rentals mostly from locals. I’ve used it successfully (10 yrs. ago). Most locals will accept pets, just ask.
Thanks so much for your thorough reply!
I actually have plans to check out PV at the beginning of the year and will probably bring my dog to see how she does with the humidity. She’s a legit ESA and flies with me in cabin, so that should not be a problem. Moving would be something else entirely, however, as I would want to take at least some of my things with me.
When you say “not an area that you would be wanting to rent in” do you mean because it’s not safe, or for some other reason?
And are there any areas that you would specifically recommend avoiding for safety reasons?
Thanks again!!
Oh wow! And thanks for the link to manoamano! It’s exactly what I was hoping to find!!
BTW- do you own a home in PV? I’ve read the requirements for ownership and it seems more than doable, and I’m kind of shocked at the prices. I love the parts of MX that I’ve visited but obviously don’t know what I’ll think of PV til I visit. But at those prices, I would be better off buying a home as a corporation and renting it as a vacation rental when I’m not there.
Thoughts? Experiences?
Thanks again!
You give out such great advice. Thanks to your suggestions, our drive down from Nogales was a breeze. You
mentioned a veterinarian, Dr. Julian Gomez Guitierrez. Where is he located? Do you have a phone # for him? We need to get a vet now that we are here. His name has come up a couple of times. Thank you so much for all of your great advice
Sharon
Dr. Julian Gomez Gutierrez
Ignacio L. Vallarta #316
Col. Emiliano Zapata
222-5540
Right down the block from Freddy’s Toucan on Basillo Badillo. Two great vets in that office and a very good part time groomer. The office is closed from 2-4 PM
The office next to his is his brother’s Dr. Ignacio Gomez Gutierrez 222-5359, a wonderful dentist
One more time!!!!!. GRACIAS MUCHO MUCHO!!! We live right around the corner and were hoping to find a vet
and a groomer close to our condo. Our perra is a golden and needs a trim to be comfortable. Plus we have a
19 year old kitty. You are so awesome to offer so much info. So far we absolutly LOVE living in PV, and
one of the reasons is people like you.
GRACIAS!!! GRACIAS!!!
Dan y Sharon
I have no personal knowledge of the safety of that area. From what I’ve seen driving thru the area, there are few walkable restaurants, no night life or shopping except Walmart and Sam’s Club, the Galerias and Pharmacia Guadalajara. There is a new casino with condos above it, but just a block away the homes and rentals look run down and not well maintained.
Your dog should have no problems with the humidity. Around the beginning of Dec. the weather “flips” and the humidity goes way until May when the humid rainy season starts.
I have rented on Aquiles Serdan in Old town when I first came here. Nice area, very safe. The next time I came down I rented a small apartment on calle Peru in Centro…quiet and within walking distance of Ley’s and the beach. I then moved to a studio a couple of blocks away, because my old golden retriever could not climb steps any more due to arthritis. When I returned a couple of years later I rented an apartment in Alta Vista at Casa de Carmen that accepted my new dog and 2 cats. Beautiful view…I would walk downhill to go into town or walk the dog, but I l always took a taxi back. It was so steep. My personal favorites of neighborhoods are Old Town, Centro, 5 de deciembre, colonia Las Canoes on the rio Cuale, and where I bought my home in colonia Buenos Aires (probably a little further away with none of the amenities that you are interested in, but a great family neighborhood.) I would say anything between Old town and the Sports Park up the tunnel road would meet your requirements. I have heard there is crime in col. El Caloso.
I bought about 6 years ago in Buenos Aires. The market has been really slow and if I wanted to sell it now, it would have to be priced at less than what I paid for it before improvements. And then there is the problem of the peso value. I think when I bought it was 11 to 1 and now it’s 20 to 1. Even if I sell it at what I paid for it, with the difference in the exchange rate, I would be liable for a 30+% tax on the difference in the exchange rate. My advice, come down and try it for a year and then make up your mind. You could probably lock in a long term lease rate that could be more favorable than buying. Talk to your accountant or tax guy.
There are companies that will ship things down for you. If you fly some airlines will let you ship up to 10 bags for a fee. Just remember that you will probably be coming down on a tourist visa which is only good for 6 months and after that you will have to fly out again. You could leave your things here and board your pets and do a quick trip out and then come back the next day back for another 6 months.
You are awesome. Thank you so much for your helpful information!